Penrhyn - Te Tautua

We moved across to the other village today.
They talked Trinda into attending church with them tomorrow. They even gave her a beautiful dress to wear and are loaning her a hat! We'll see ...

I am going lobster hunting tonight on the reef with a flashlight.

Penrhyn

The Kwai supply ship came and went. They left this afternoon about 6. We managed to not buy much from them this time, however the islanders sure did! Lots of stuff was delivered. No fresh veggies though, just basics and electronics. Diesel, DVD players, CD players and gameBoys, pots and pans and silverware. I don't know why the silverware is so popular since they never put it out when they serve us dinner.

I went to the presentation where the Queen's Rep pinned the medal on Christine's father. Trinda wanted to come but didn't make it. We went to Alex's house to go with them, but we were not dressed approprately. It was in the Prodistant church so no sleevless blouses or pants for women and long paants for men. On the way back to the boat to change, Trinda got hit with diarryha and had to stay home.

I got back to the church a few minutes late. The constables and his body guard had the street blocked off and I had to wait while the Queen's Rep entered the church. Then they locked the door until after the first song. Then they let us stragglers in. They said, "Go on in, face Him and bow. Then take a seat.

It was all in Mauri, the native tongue of the Cook Islands, so I didn't understand much. Until they read the letter from the Queen. It was in English. Seems Christine's father has been employed by the government for over 40 years!

Then we went across the street to the activity center and had supper. there were over 40 dishes. I did my best to sample them all as you would guess, but by the time I got back for the second pass, many of them were empty. I did try pork, curried scallops, several fish, sweet & sour bread fruit, arrowroot (tapioca), rice, taro, and several stews and pasta dishes. ALL with out benefit of silverware or serving spoons. Just you try hot stew with just your fingers! Aah well, when in Rome ...
There was a finger bowl and community towel afterwards.

The captain and crew from the Kwai came also, but they were too late even for the food. There was none left 30 minutes after the start! Christine and Alex invited them and me back to their house for drinks and supper for those who missed out. They got the good deal, lobster, more scallops (better tasting), fresh bread, etc. I had to settle for just some scotch, as I had bragged about eating my dinner and having to have Trinda's share too since she was sick. We all had a little too much scotch. Alex's
daughters danced for the crew from the Kwai and they played guitars and ukulele and every body sang (except me, I don't know any songs).

Alex wanted to buy some of my fish hooks, so I set the price at 2 lobsters and 2 varo (mantis shrimp). He thought I was kidding, just some food for the hooks? I said sure, I really wanted to taste the varo. So, tonight they had us in for the varo. It is like a very large prawn or shrimp, but has legs in front that remind you of a preying mantis. the edible part of the tail was maybe 8 inches long an 1 to 2 inches wide. the head is only about 2 inches, so it looks all tail. It was sweeter than shrimp,
not as rich as lobster, but better than crab even, Trinda said. Usually they feed us lots of choices, like the parties, but tonight it was just the varo, fresh buttered bread, rice, tea and coconut cream. The varo was sautéed/steamed in garlic butter. I was the best meal we've had in a long time.

Back on the air

I found a cable/adapter. I have e-mail again! I had a USB/serial adapter on the GPS cable that I had forgotten about.

We arrived Penrhyn OK, about 7 AM. Got here on Sunday morning. We thought we might have a problem, but they said "No problem! Come on in and anchor in the lagoon about 3 PM." We did and they waited to come out and check us in Monday morning. We got water made and some laundry done waiting for them. And plenty of rest. Most places want to check us in before we get to rest from the trip. So it was nice for a change.

They all seem glad to see us. Trinda brought stuff for Alex and Christine and their daughter, the island baker.

The Kwai came yesterday too and there is one other boat. We are only the 3rd and fourth boats this season. They wonder where all the boats are.

The Queen's Representative is here today to give an award from the Queen of England to Christine's father. There has been lots of kids dancing and music and kaikais (feast in the maneaba). Having fun in the good weather.

Penrhyn Arrival

We arrived at Penrhyn Island, Northern Cooks about 8:00AM today, Sunday July 6. All is well.

I think that's right at 6 days. All this International Date Line crossing confuses me. Oh well, should be OK for a few months, till we head back up to Tarawa.

Alex and Christine remembered us. They called on the radio just as we anchored. They said it would be fine to come on inside the lagoon and anchor, even though it is Sunday. Only leaving on Sunday is bad.

We are glad to be anchored again. It is a little rocky in here, with a 20 knot wind and 5 miles of fetch. We made water to fill both tanks full. We still had over 50 gallons in the second tank. We seem to unconsciously go on rationing as soon as the first tank runs out.

Our initial plan is to stay about a week. We saw another sail boat arrive outside just as we were dodging coral heads on our way in. They haven't answered the radio yet and we can't see them from inside, but I suppose they are still out there somewhere.

Day 5 and 6

90 miles to go.
The wind came up and the sea got a little bouncy, too bouncy to sit up front and type a letter. We did make good time though, 148 mile day yesterday. That's close to our record, just over 6 knots for a 24 hour average. We've slowed a bit this afternoon though. We should be there some time in the morning.

Just great! They got mad at us for leaving on a "Sunday" and here we show up again on Sunday! Oh well, they'll get over it. Maybe this way we can just anchor outside for the day and catch up on some rest and chores.

We are half out of water, and I think maybe the reason the water maker broke is that it sucked too much air from making water under sail in a rough sea,on this same tack from Hawaii. So I decided not to make any water till we get there or go on the other tack so the intake is on the downhill side.

Still not fishing. I don't know why, we just aren't.

I made beef and broccoli stir-fry last night. As usual I forgot to start the rice till it was almost too late, then Trinda had said she cut up all the stuff but the onion. I looked in the fridge and saw a baggie of broccoli and thought that was all. I missed the stems so it was a 'light' meal. It was good anyway.. We had some fresh ginger for it so that helped.

Day 3 and 4

Still nothing exciting, thank goodness. The wind got light and too far SE so we motor sailed about 6 hours upwind last night got get back some easting. Now the wind is back to the East and we are doing fine. Still 365 miles from Penrhyn.

No fishing still. I'm cooking a couple of steaks in a pan on the stove for tonight and mashed potatoes plus left over pasts salad.

Reading lots of books. We are watching Heros season 2 on the portable DVD player during the night watches. I couldn't believe we forgot about them till now, but it is nice to have something new.

Xmas to Penrhyn - day 2

Not much exciting.
The wind is changing for the better. Yesterday it was almost on the nose. We were 27 miles off course by midnight. Today we are almost back and thinking of loosening the sails a little. We are sailing 'close hauled' or as near to into the wind as we can. The waves are low and not an unpleasant ride.

We are not fishing yet.

We are only a few miles from our 3rd equator crossing. We have no party planned. In fact, I just noticed it. Oh well, jaded sailors! Ha!